In the watchmaking industry, one that is dominated by traditional manufacturing methods and large-scale production, UK-based startup Apiar is taking a different approach.
Founded by long-time friends and engineers Sam White and Matt Oosthuizen, Apiar aims to revolutionise the industry by blending traditional watchmaking with cutting-edge additive manufacturing (AM), commonly known as 3D printing. Their journey from engineering enthusiasts to watchmakers is as innovative as their products themselves.
From engineers to horologists
White and Oosthuizen’s journey began on the rugby pitch at school, but their shared passion for physics and engineering led them both to study mechanical and manufacturing engineering at university. White pursued a career in the nuclear industry, while Oosthuizen became deeply involved in additive manufacturing at Autodesk, where he worked on metal 3D printing and generative design projects. Their paths converged when Oosthuizen purchased a luxury watch to celebrate a promotion, sparking a deep appreciation of timepieces and everything that makes them tick. This passion soon evolved into a business idea: creating uniquely engineered watches that showcase the potential of advanced manufacturing.
Apiar’s Matt Oosthuizen (left) and Sam White (right).
The Apiar concept: imposible watches made possible
Apiar was born out of the desire to merge engineering innovation with horology. “We wanted to take technology from industries like aerospace and motorsport—where additive manufacturing is making huge strides—and apply it to watchmaking,” Oosthuizen explained. Unlike traditional brands that focus on the aesthetics or heritage of watches, Apiar’s mission is to highlight the engineering behind the timepiece itself.
A key differentiator is the use of additive manufacturing to create watch cases and components that would be impossible to produce using conventional methods. This approach allows them to experiment with lightweight structures, intricate geometries, and material efficiencies that aren’t commonly seen in the industry. “We’re not just using 3D printing as a gimmick,” White emphasised. “Every design choice is driven by the advantages that AM offers.”
Generative design inspired caseback and lugs of Apiar’s Impossible Gen1.0.
Bridging a gap in the market?
But is there room for another watch brand? White and Oosthuizen believe there is, and their answer lies in their unique value proposition. Apiar doesn’t aim to compete with luxury brands on heritage or exclusivity but rather to attract customers who appreciate innovation and customisation.
Their target audience consists of technology enthusiasts, engineering professionals, and serious watch collectors—those who appreciate a timepiece not just for its brand name, but for the ingenuity behind its creation. “A British-made, 3D-printed titanium watch is something completely out of left field,” Oosthuizen noted. “It’s a conversation starter.”
Manufacturing in the UK: challenges and opportunities
Manufacturing watches in the UK presents a set of challenges, particularly in an industry where outsourcing to Switzerland or Asia is often the norm. However, for Apiar, maintaining control over their supply chain and contributing to the resurgence of British watchmaking is a core part of their mission.
Rather than relying on overseas suppliers, they have built strong partnerships with British manufacturers, including Apex Additive in Wales and Silvey Engineering in Gloucestershire. These collaborations allow them to maintain agility in design iterations, reduce lead times, and support local industry.
A new approach to watch production
Apiar’s production model currently follows a made-to-order system, a strategic choice that balances customisation with manufacturing feasibility. Their first collection allowed customers to configure highly personalised watches, but they soon realised that too many options could be overwhelming. “It’s like a restaurant menu,” White explained. “Too few options and customers feel restricted, but too many and they’re overwhelmed.”
Their upcoming collection, known as the Gen 1.0, strikes a balance between exclusivity and efficiency. The initial limited-edition run will be followed by a core range with set dial colors, allowing for easier production while still offering some level of personalisation.
‘Uncovering Apiar’s titanium watch cases within Apex’s Renishaw RenAM500Q machine in Ebbw Vale’.
Scaling up without losing identity
When asked about their long-term business goals, White and Oosthuizen were clear: they aim to scale responsibly while maintaining the innovative spirit that sets them apart. While many startups seek venture capital for rapid expansion, Apiar wants to self-fund its growth through sales and potential grant funding as far as possible. “The margins in watchmaking are higher than in many other industries, so we want to see how far we can take this without additional outside investment,” Oosthuizen said.
Part of their long-term vision includes bringing more of the manufacturing process in-house to speed up internal development and to offer R&D/prototyping and small scale production services to other British watch brands. Investing in their own CNC machines and additive manufacturing equipment would allow them to further refine their designs and offer services to other UK-based watch brands. “If we can help build a stronger British watch industry, that’s a win for everyone,” White added.
The future of Apiar
Apiar is poised for an exciting year. Their first core range, the Gen 1.0, will be launched on 8 March to coincide with British Watchmakers’ Day 2025, where they hope to attract more enthusiasts and potential collaborators. Beyond that, they plan to continue innovating, developing new designs that push the boundaries of what’s possible with additive manufacturing.
Apiar will also release the Invenire ERB, a limited edition version of their first watch, on 8 March. Born out of a collaboration with professional artist and watch customiser Chris Alexander, AKA The Dial Artist, the ERB strays into haute horlogerie territory given the various hand painted elements throughout the watch. ERB stands for Einstein-Rosen Bridge (more commonly known as a ‘wormhole’), a phenomenon theorised by Einstein and powerful enough to bend space and time.
Apiar’s journey reflects a broader trend in British watchmaking—a movement towards high-tech, locally produced timepieces that challenge the dominance of traditional Swiss brands. As Apiar continues to grow, it will be fascinating to see how they shape the future of engineering-driven horology.
Apiar’s limited edition Invenire ERB, which is due to be launched on 8 March at the British Watchmakers’ Day event in London.
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